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The RVer's Open Forum / GENERAL RV DISCUSSIONS / Black water tank

Silvana
User ID: 9140763 Jun 18th 1:49 PM
How much water is advisable to keep in the black water tank along with the chemicals when on the road? We have a 28' Southwind that we have restored.

tk
User ID: 9892733 Jun 18th 7:55 PM
The black water tank empties better if it is over half full when you empty it, as the water pressure pushes everything out. NEVER leave the valve open when in camp, as the water flows out but not the solids.
One way to help keep it and the sensors clean is to put 2-3 gallons in it just after you empty it, so that can slosh around while underway.
I then wash my tank out after every trip with a venturi jet wand after every trip, though you wouldn't do that much on a long road trip as you are not leaving it to dry out as you do in storage.

Lou
User ID: 0554384 Jun 18th 9:16 PM
Silvana, You have to keep enough water in to float the solids. If not, they will pile up under the toilet discharge tube and plug the system. A couple of inches in the tank is usually enough. Better to have a tank half full as it breaks the solids up as you drive due sloshing action in the tank.

Silvana
User ID: 9140763 Jun 18th 11:51 PM
Hi and thank you very much.

Cybersue/Al
User ID: 1202654 Jun 20th 9:35 AM
The biggest mistake people make is not using enough flush water, we can go 5/6 days before dumping, making sure we use plenty of fresh flush water, then we dump black first, clean and flush, then dump grey and again flush, then close both and add chemicals and some water, never had a problem, the more water to solid ratio you've got the better Dump you will get.....

Silvana
User ID: 9140763 Jun 20th 9:58 AM
Not using enough flush water means when we are using the toilet we should make sure we flush several times after use? So lots of water is used for the black tank. This is good advice Cybersue. We are newbies. We have been restoring our RV and are almost ready to take it out, we appreciate all this good advice. Thanks.

Cybersue/Al
User ID: 1202654 Jun 20th 11:25 AM
Ours is designed if we pull up on the handle it fills the bowl, down flushes and most are designed that not alot of water goes in as you flush, so we add more, plus if we're only half full, and soon ready to leave our campsite, while still hooked up to the water line, I really add water....before we go to the dump station...Get it? we always get a good dump if you get my drift...lol /Our first MH we refurbished new carpet, padding, I redecorated...new custom mattress, and boy did it pay off, traded for a new one got $6,000 more than we paid for it, Good Luck on your do-over.

Silvana
User ID: 9140763 Jun 20th 5:14 PM
Thanks. Our rig is beautiful and we had fun doing it, and you made out like a bandit. Do you use regular toilet paper, maybe one ply? And you said that you dump every 5 to 6 days. How many people are using it at that rate? We will vary between 2 and 4 people most times and we also will use gas station bathrooms when possible to save having to dump. Thanks again.

CyberSue/Al
User ID: 1202654 Jun 20th 5:59 PM
I think it's angel soft but any 2 ply will do almost and you can test it tear off one sheet put in a jar of water and shake it,if it disolves quickly it's just fine.
It is just the two of us, in a Class A MH, we do not use public bathrooms or showers that's why we bought our MH...I like my privacy, we know how to conserve water, in the shower wet down wash, rinse...dishes I wash, rinse all at one time, not each piece. The one we fixed up was a Class C, the couple who bought it after we traded called us and said it smells brand new,(new carpet & padding will do that)no smokers in it ever helps to and it was really, really pretty! 29'... our class A is 34' outside 32' inside.(Bigger holding tanks)

JIm R
User ID: 8890073 Jun 22nd 12:37 PM
Silvana,one very important thing use a good tank additive with enzymes and bacteria DO NOT use clorine bleach types in your tank if can help as they are anti- bacterial and will distroy any good that can be derived from a good tank additive a active tank is a happy tank.
Jim

Mike
Administrator Jun 22nd 1:38 PM
Much of the information nescssary to answer the questions being asked here, especially about holding tank additives, has been throughly discussed and is available in the 'Holding tank chemicals' thread.

Mike

Barb
User ID: 1028194 Jun 25th 11:42 AM
My brother in law just had his black water tank worked on several times during the period of a year. It would stop up. Finally he took it to a good rv repair place and they told him the reason for this is because he was not using the holding tank at all, just using his sewer hose and letting it constantly drain. This was causing the sensors inside the tank to dry out, thus causing the stoppage. They figured out the problem, installed a sprayer inside the tank to spray automatically from time to time. This is supposed to keep everything moist, not letting the sensors dry out. THey recommended to him, even though he is in a campground, to keep the black water tank closed and just dump about 1 time a week. They advised this would keep everything inside from drying out. QUESTION: IS THIS TRUE? or can he have his sewer hose hooked directly to constantly drain?

Barthbill
User ID: 1028194 Jun 25th 11:43 AM
Barb, your brother has received good advice. When a tank is hooked up to a sewer and the valve is constantly open, the liquids run down thoroughly, but the solids do not. The solids can build up and harden. A black tank should be allowed to reach at least half capacity before the dump valve is opened. Then, when the dump valve is opened, there is a vigorous flushing action that carries solids and paper along out the chute. If he doesn't want to wait until the tank is half full from normal use, he can fill the tank half full by running water in to it before dumping. Some coaches have the bathroom sink or shower draining in to the black tank. Heck, he can dump every day that way, if he wishes.

Drying out the sensors, however, has nothing to do with clogs.

What toilet paper is he using? Some brands are better than others as far as clogging, however, the more water used for flushing, the fewer problems there will be.

Mike
Administrator Jun 25th 11:47 AM
http://bart.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/plumbing/plumb.htm

Silvana
User ID: 9140763 Jun 25th 1:14 PM
I am printing all this info, what a great treasure this place is. Thanks so much.

Mike B
User ID: 1341734 Jun 26th 12:47 AM
I've been following the suggestions for the sensors and black tank problems. The Enzyme system is appealing. Does anyone have experience with an initial cleanup procedure? Perhaps fill the (40 gal) tank with water, add the enzyme and let set for a week. How about a solution of soapy water? Anyone have expereience with the fancy spray tubings or sticks I see for sale?
Thanks Mike B 6/26/04

Mike
Administrator Jul 2nd 10:57 AM
The following is from the FAQ page of my old RVChem website and should help answer some of the questions being asked here.

***************************

What's the correct way to dump my holding tanks?

Here’s what we recommend. Empty the holding tanks when near full by first dumping the black water tank and then, after it's drained and with the black tank valve still open, the grey water tank. When all the sewage has drained, close both valves. Don't worry about cross contamination of the holding tanks. The force of the draining grey water will prevent any residual black water from getting into the grey water tank.

You'll need to rinse out the sewer hose before storing it but, if using a good quality liquid enzyme producing bacteria based holding tank treatment product, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how clean it is even before it's rinsed. As for rinsing the tanks after draining, well, our customers tell us they usually don’t have to. Again, if using a good bacteria based liquid holding tank treatment product, the contents of the tank will be almost completely liquid and will empty fast and clean.

We also suggest that you add a couple of gallons or so of water and the appropriate amount of a good liquid bacteria based holding tank treatment product to your empty holding tanks before storing your RV. The chemical will continue cleaning your tanks and you’ll be ready to go without having to worry about that minor chore before your next outing.

For storage in below freezing temperatures you should assure that all of your holding tanks are empty.

Silvana User ID: 9140763	Jun 18th 1:49 PM How much water is advisable to keep in the black water tank along with the chemicals when on the road? We have a 28' Southwind that we have restored.
tk User ID: 9892733	Jun 18th 7:55 PM The black water tank empties better if it is over half full when you empty it, as the water pressure pushes everything out. NEVER leave the valve open when in camp, as the water flows out but not the solids. One way to help keep it and the sensors clean is to put 2-3 gallons in it just after you empty it, so that can slosh around while underway. I then wash my tank out after every trip with a venturi jet wand after every trip, though you wouldn't do that much on a long road trip as you are not leaving it to dry out as you do in storage.
Lou User ID: 0554384	Jun 18th 9:16 PM Silvana, You have to keep enough water in to float the solids. If not, they will pile up under the toilet discharge tube and plug the system. A couple of inches in the tank is usually enough. Better to have a tank half full as it breaks the solids up as you drive due sloshing action in the tank.
Silvana User ID: 9140763	Jun 18th 11:51 PM Hi and thank you very much.
Cybersue/Al User ID: 1202654	Jun 20th 9:35 AM The biggest mistake people make is not using enough flush water, we can go 5/6 days before dumping, making sure we use plenty of fresh flush water, then we dump black first, clean and flush, then dump grey and again flush, then close both and add chemicals and some water, never had a problem, the more water to solid ratio you've got the better Dump you will get.....
Silvana User ID: 9140763	Jun 20th 9:58 AM Not using enough flush water means when we are using the toilet we should make sure we flush several times after use? So lots of water is used for the black tank. This is good advice Cybersue. We are newbies. We have been restoring our RV and are almost ready to take it out, we appreciate all this good advice. Thanks.
Cybersue/Al User ID: 1202654	Jun 20th 11:25 AM Ours is designed if we pull up on the handle it fills the bowl, down flushes and most are designed that not alot of water goes in as you flush, so we add more, plus if we're only half full, and soon ready to leave our campsite, while still hooked up to the water line, I really add water....before we go to the dump station...Get it? we always get a good dump if you get my drift...lol /Our first MH we refurbished new carpet, padding, I redecorated...new custom mattress, and boy did it pay off, traded for a new one got $6,000 more than we paid for it, Good Luck on your do-over.
Silvana User ID: 9140763	Jun 20th 5:14 PM Thanks. Our rig is beautiful and we had fun doing it, and you made out like a bandit. Do you use regular toilet paper, maybe one ply? And you said that you dump every 5 to 6 days. How many people are using it at that rate? We will vary between 2 and 4 people most times and we also will use gas station bathrooms when possible to save having to dump. Thanks again.
CyberSue/Al User ID: 1202654	Jun 20th 5:59 PM I think it's angel soft but any 2 ply will do almost and you can test it tear off one sheet put in a jar of water and shake it,if it disolves quickly it's just fine. It is just the two of us, in a Class A MH, we do not use public bathrooms or showers that's why we bought our MH...I like my privacy, we know how to conserve water, in the shower wet down wash, rinse...dishes I wash, rinse all at one time, not each piece. The one we fixed up was a Class C, the couple who bought it after we traded called us and said it smells brand new,(new carpet & padding will do that)no smokers in it ever helps to and it was really, really pretty! 29'... our class A is 34' outside 32' inside.(Bigger holding tanks)
JIm R User ID: 8890073	Jun 22nd 12:37 PM Silvana,one very important thing use a good tank additive with enzymes and bacteria DO NOT use clorine bleach types in your tank if can help as they are anti- bacterial and will distroy any good that can be derived from a good tank additive a active tank is a happy tank. Jim
Mike Administrator	Jun 22nd 1:38 PM Much of the information nescssary to answer the questions being asked here, especially about holding tank additives, has been throughly discussed and is available in the 'Holding tank chemicals' thread. Mike
Barb User ID: 1028194	Jun 25th 11:42 AM My brother in law just had his black water tank worked on several times during the period of a year. It would stop up. Finally he took it to a good rv repair place and they told him the reason for this is because he was not using the holding tank at all, just using his sewer hose and letting it constantly drain. This was causing the sensors inside the tank to dry out, thus causing the stoppage. They figured out the problem, installed a sprayer inside the tank to spray automatically from time to time. This is supposed to keep everything moist, not letting the sensors dry out. THey recommended to him, even though he is in a campground, to keep the black water tank closed and just dump about 1 time a week. They advised this would keep everything inside from drying out. QUESTION: IS THIS TRUE? or can he have his sewer hose hooked directly to constantly drain?
Barthbill User ID: 1028194	Jun 25th 11:43 AM Barb, your brother has received good advice. When a tank is hooked up to a sewer and the valve is constantly open, the liquids run down thoroughly, but the solids do not. The solids can build up and harden. A black tank should be allowed to reach at least half capacity before the dump valve is opened. Then, when the dump valve is opened, there is a vigorous flushing action that carries solids and paper along out the chute. If he doesn't want to wait until the tank is half full from normal use, he can fill the tank half full by running water in to it before dumping. Some coaches have the bathroom sink or shower draining in to the black tank. Heck, he can dump every day that way, if he wishes. Drying out the sensors, however, has nothing to do with clogs. What toilet paper is he using? Some brands are better than others as far as clogging, however, the more water used for flushing, the fewer problems there will be.
Mike Administrator	Jun 25th 11:47 AM http://bart.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/plumbing/plumb.htm
Silvana User ID: 9140763	Jun 25th 1:14 PM I am printing all this info, what a great treasure this place is. Thanks so much.
Mike B User ID: 1341734	Jun 26th 12:47 AM I've been following the suggestions for the sensors and black tank problems. The Enzyme system is appealing. Does anyone have experience with an initial cleanup procedure? Perhaps fill the (40 gal) tank with water, add the enzyme and let set for a week. How about a solution of soapy water? Anyone have expereience with the fancy spray tubings or sticks I see for sale? Thanks Mike B 6/26/04
Mike Administrator	Jul 2nd 10:57 AM The following is from the FAQ page of my old RVChem website and should help answer some of the questions being asked here. *************************** What's the correct way to dump my holding tanks? Here’s what we recommend. Empty the holding tanks when near full by first dumping the black water tank and then, after it's drained and with the black tank valve still open, the grey water tank. When all the sewage has drained, close both valves. Don't worry about cross contamination of the holding tanks. The force of the draining grey water will prevent any residual black water from getting into the grey water tank. You'll need to rinse out the sewer hose before storing it but, if using a good quality liquid enzyme producing bacteria based holding tank treatment product, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how clean it is even before it's rinsed. As for rinsing the tanks after draining, well, our customers tell us they usually don’t have to. Again, if using a good bacteria based liquid holding tank treatment product, the contents of the tank will be almost completely liquid and will empty fast and clean. We also suggest that you add a couple of gallons or so of water and the appropriate amount of a good liquid bacteria based holding tank treatment product to your empty holding tanks before storing your RV. The chemical will continue cleaning your tanks and you’ll be ready to go without having to worry about that minor chore before your next outing. For storage in below freezing temperatures you should assure that all of your holding tanks are empty.