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The RVer's Open Forum / GENERAL RV DISCUSSIONS / aluminum frame VS wood

Nicholas User ID: 1411674	Aug 23rd 8:48 PM I'm out looking at replacement trailers. Most still seem to be made out of wood framing. The ones I have found with aluminum seem to be approx. twice the price. I have been looking for info comparing the two roof/wall/framing matierials. I would like to tow something less than 25' and I like back roads. Are the metal frames heavier? Worth the extra price? I'm after durability in a rig. Thanks, Nicholas
Barthbill User ID: 0067194	Aug 23rd 9:25 PM I am on RV number 6 or 7. I finally wised up and got an all metal one. Shoulda done it sooner. My previous coach, starts with "S", had a wood frame. We used to call it "the shifting paradigm", which was a vague reference to the fact that it was a moving parallelogram of constantly shifting angles. It achieved the elevated status of a rectangle only for the brief moment when it went from one set of angles to another. And all the creaks and groans were just reminders that everything was not very firmly attached. It had 22,000 miles when we sold it. The purchaser had the windshield blow inward on a windy day. I always expected it to fall out when boondocking. The later wood-framed ones I have seen the inside of have been sloppily built, and are subject to rot and loosening of staples. It would be possible to build a good wood framed RV, but no one seems to want to any more. Cheap labor, you know. I did have a 60 Shasta that was well built, but that was another world.
jd User ID: 9126573	Aug 23rd 9:51 PM AGREE! Our 1983 Class C (starts with HR) has 100,000 miles on its aluminum frame. Doors and windows still work freely, doesn't squeak squirm or rattle. God Bless, jd
JC User ID: 0673084	Aug 24th 10:59 AM It isn't the *wood* framing itself that can be a problem, it's how that wood is put together. A wood-framed RV can be very strong and stable IF it's carefully designed and well constructed, but most aren't; most wood framing is sparse and cheesy, and frame members are attached with a few staples. No wonder everything shifts and comes loose! Lazy Daze, a class C manufacturer in southern CA, uses wood framing, and these rigs don't squeak, rattle, groan, or shift. I've seen how they're put together; nothing is going anywhere. Way too many manufacturers produce poorly designed and sloppily-constructed RVs, both wood and aluminum framed; the quality of materials and workmanship is dismal, they're often overweight from the get-go, and if a dozen things don't break by the time a short shakedown cruise is over, the buyer considers himself/herself pretty lucky. The RV industry has done a good job of lowering the consumer's expectations to match what manufacturers produce. I'll take an LD -- not perfect, but its high quality design, engineering, construction, materials, and great customer service sold me on its value.
Mickey User ID: 9301033	Aug 24th 11:17 AM Either material can result in either a good or bad product. What counts is the quality of the engineering that went into the design, the qlty of the materials chossen and the qlty of the workmanship. Some brands place more value on qlty than price. Some brands rely on eye candy over the qlty that can't be seen below the surface.
Barthbill User ID: 0067194	Aug 24th 11:48 AM JC, I will agree that Lazy Daze are really good coaches. When I had a class C, I wished I had bought a Lazy Daze. One question: Do they use treated wood? Small leaks seem to be inevitable. So, then, is dry rot.
JC User ID: 8172663	Aug 24th 1:23 PM I don't believe that LD uses "treated" wood for the framing; there's no mention of this in any specs. Are "small leaks" inevitable? I don't know, but I would hope that sound, tight construction, proper sealing materials and techniques, and diligent maintenance would take care of any leak potential before it started. LD provides the first two, and the last is up to me! I plan to be looking at every seam -- including the roof seams, of course -- on mine at the factory when it's delivered!
nicholas User ID: 1411674	Aug 24th 9:27 PM Now that's a surprising bit of info: LZ-DZ using wood framing- They do have a well deserved reputation. Hmmm. However: I am looking at narrowing my search to a smaller/25' or less/ either a TT or a 5th. That's where the quality issue has been harder to research. Again: is aluminum framed unit more expensive? Does it weigh more??
Chris Fine User ID: 0972444	Aug 29th 1:51 PM MY DP has some wood in the skinning process, and as such I maintain it with (under the coach) an undercoating product. BUY ALL METAL. My next one will be, if for nothing else, my piece of mind and confidence in the coach!!CF
Larry User ID: 8039873	Dec 10th 10:51 PM I guess I have a rarity...21 Ft. 5er, woodframed 3200lbs dry weight. Noticed a leak inside the rearmost closet during rain storm. checked & found the rear clearance lites calking was bad. cleaned it all up & recalked today, (storm 2nite) Happy with the wood frame.
Mike User ID: 9029153	Dec 12th 8:49 AM Wood vs Alum is always an interesting discussion, some thoughts: You can get good or bad of either, the design and build quality is the most important factor. Alum can have the issue of heat transfer and thus condensation. RVCG doesn't rate Alum trailer as true 4 season only wood. People have the opinion that Alum is lighter then wood but can actually be heavier. Alum trailers are not always fully Alum, many Alum trailers still have wood roofs.
john.b User ID: 0603144	Jul 14th 3:48 PM Like mike said above , I took a dry 2/2 of wood and a similar sized piece of aluminum like used in Rvs and weighed them. The weight difference was almost un detectable. I believe we are paying for the companies ability to work with dimensionally more stable material with aluminum than wood and that is a benefit for them more than us!!I am reluctant to own aluminum because when it gets stressed it has to be able to self correct and I don't see how it can if it is welded. They all flex and some more than others. Some manufacturers follow aircraft types of construction with screws gussets and epoxy so it can flex without breaking. A friend of ours had paneling rip in his welded frame aluminum when it moved or fractured. There are a gazillion wood constructed units still doing fine as long as the owners kept up there caulking routine!! John.b
gary User ID: 3515324	Oct 7th 5:46 PM you get what u pay for...dont be fooled...newmar products....have the quality...and the reputation
Joe W. User ID: 1216034	Oct 14th 2:40 PM I was told that Teton is still using all wood.
Jim User ID: 1258494	Oct 25th 6:06 PM Well I can tell you without doubt that wood is best!! Why? - because I just bought a wood frame fiver - and I want to feel good about it!! GRIN!
Barthbill User ID: 0213374	Oct 30th 9:37 PM If you buy a new RV with a wood frame, and can be absolutely sure that there are never water leaks, all well and good. However, a used RV is a different matter entirely.
Jim User ID: 1258494	Oct 31st 12:37 PM We bought new. I agree with your comments about water leaks - and unfortunately there's probably no way you can "be absolutely sure that there are never water leaks". "Never" is tough to meet! Having had a trailer that leaked at the front cap to roof seam, and seeing the damage done when they pulled the delaminated Filon off, I plan to be pretty fanatical about maintaining the sealant. I also plan to discuss Eternabond with the factory. If it won't void my warranty I'll probably seal the front and rear cap/roof seams with Eternabond immediately upon receiving the trailer. I realize that aluminum framing largely eliminates the structural concerns if you get a long term leak, but of course a leak in any rig can cause a lot of grief.
cwsoules User ID: 0840444	Oct 31st 11:09 PM Our 5er is an Automate has aluminum framing and is not really heavy 29' with a GVWR of 10,640#. We like it and if we ever replace it it will be with another Automate.