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The RVer's Open Forum / TECHNICAL RV HELP / P-30 Air bladders

Back 20 Messages
Tim Mar 28th 2:04 AM
Is it possible to change the air bladders on the p-30 chassis with out having to tear the front end apart? Is it possible to slide them through the space in the springs?
Greg
User ID: 8353323
Aug 23rd 10:32 AM
Ray...what's the cost of the replacements and how much time to change them out?

Replacing with the aftermarket bags is cheap and relatively fast. Just replaced my front bags last month by myself and I have very similar comments to the others on this thread. About $80 total cost from CW with a coupon. (just for grins I called the local GM dealer...$129 EACH for theirs). 2 hours from start I was completely done.

If I had problems with my rigs lean, sway or bouncing, etc. I might have considered some type of upgrade..but I haven't seen those problems in mine.
Kenneth
User ID: 9704903
Aug 23rd 3:35 PM
I gave thought to replacing the coil springs to heavier duty ones vs replacing the air bags. But being in a rural area it was impossible to find someone to replace the coils. I called a RV place 60 miles from me (closest) and for new springs, installed they wanted I believe $500 to do the job, springs and labor. The closest Chev dealer wanted close to $700 for the same job, so I just went with the air bags and am happy
Ray
User ID: 0415304
Aug 24th 7:48 PM
Thanks for the thoughts.
Called AIR LIFT and founnd Canadian Tire carries the 1000 kit with rempte fill for $100 Canadian.
I replaced the one bad air bag this evening took a little over an hour allowing my neighbour to visit and comment on my progress.
Thanks
Ray
J.R.
User ID: 1425064
Jun 29th 1:53 AM
Thanks to all
I got a set of air lift for our P30 just bought it the owner said he did't know that they were gone really!! Got mine at Canadian Tire cheaper than ordering them from C.W.With a bad back bad sholder and unit in the air I and my tools crawled under dreading this jobtook my cordless drill and hole saw cut out the valve ass. sprayed with soap&water locked vise grips on and twisted used a long screwdriver to help twist old bags hard but came the new ones went in easier they come with good instructions and individual air lines.So I survived and the bags are in.Thanks to all for your help
Jim
Linney Dew
User ID: 8061053
Jul 21st 9:39 PM
I have replaced the air bags on a 1984 Chevy P-30 and it takes a lot of pulling and twisting but it can be done. I also found out the hard way that if one air bag looses presure and you drive very far you will wear out one of your front tires. The alignment man told me that when one air bag goes flat it throws your front end alignment way out of whack and causes excessive tire wear. I have run the lines from my air bags to a bracket (homemade) that I installed just inside the engine access panel making it easy to check the pressure and inflate as necessary.
Keith
User ID: 0004344
Jul 27th 9:49 PM
My 1988 GMC G3500 van has these air bags (oem) in the front coil springs . What do they do? How does one decide how much air to put in them, ,or should they be filled to the maximum pressure indicated on the door jamb label?
Marty
User ID: 8987493
Jul 27th 10:13 PM
Keith: You didn't indicate what the "maximum pressure" is indicated on the door jamb. But, consider the air bags a "spring helpers." On most P-30 chassis, min pressure is usually 50 PSI. Some guys will put more, I don't and my M.H. rides just fine.

Marty in TN
Philo
User ID: 9063723
Aug 15th 12:17 PM
Looking at my oweners/drivers manual I read this on air bag pressure. On 32 foot models with 4300 lb front suspision put between 10 t0 50 psi of air, with a 5000 lb put between 40 to 50 psi.
On 42 foot models with 4000 lb front suspision put 10 to 50 psi. With 4500 lb put between 40 to 50 psi. This is for a 83 pace arrow p-30. Thought You would like to know.
Marty
User ID: 1878484
Aug 15th 7:30 PM
Reading Philo's comments, I got curious so checked my owners manual for a 1994/P-30 chassis. M.H. length was never given, just weight on front end. My list went like this: 10-50 PSI for 4300lb: 40-50 PSI for 5000lb: 60-100 PSI for 5500lbs. Also at the bottome of the list was this statement, and I'll paraphase. Air the air bags to max pressure, load motor home, decrease air pressure until M.H. is level. Err, I think not for me but then someone else might think this is a good idea.

Just add thought to Philo listing.

Marty in TN.
Keith
User ID: 0004344
Aug 21st 8:56 PM
Thanks to all
As soon as I get the van back from it's transmission replacement stay-over I'll recheck that door label and try that levelling procedure as I've noticed it sits high in the front at maximum pressure in the air-bags.

Best
Keith
Marty
User ID: 1028194
Jun 9th 2:36 PM
Originally posted by Mike on Sept 28, 2002:
*****************
"P-30 air bag pressure: (we) discussed this at some length here about a year or so ago. Although none of us could find a GM air bag inflation guide we were able to come up with the following on our own:

16,000# GVWR chassis = 5,500# front Axel = 90 PSI
14,800# GVWR chassis = 5,300# front Axel = 70 PSI
14,500# " " = 5,000# " " = 50 PSI
12,300# " " = 4,300# " " = 40-50

Rear air bags air pressures were not specifically determined but it was decided that the best thing to do was start with the same PSI as the front and adjust upwards on each side for level and best ride."
**************

Somewhere I'd read to load the unit for travel and then adjust air pressure for level ride. On my P-30 chassis, I use 50# PSI in the front air bags which seems to work pretty good but have none on the rear.

On Aug 15th, I posted figures taken from my '94 owners manual which were somewhat different then the above. Then, ironically, in the Motor Home Magazine dated March 2003, under the "Power train Q&A" section, this same question about air bag pressure came up. In comparison, the answer there almost mirrors (according to GM) what Mike had posted.

Just thought it worth the time to give this add insight to this question.


Marty in TN
Ernie
User ID: 1265504
Apr 30th 5:34 AM
Information:
I just had the air cushions replaced by the shop.
It took the technician (mechanic) almost 2 hours to remove the old and replace the new.
It is no easy chore. Total price was $233.00 of which $120.00 was for labor. I try and do most of the maintenance on the rv, but i am getting to the age where i just can't do certain things.
Labor rate is now $80.00 an hr.
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