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The RVer's Open Forum / TECHNICAL RV HELP / Leans too much-wife gets seasick

Back 20 Messages

Jim M
User ID: 7399413 Sep 27th 3:59 PM
I have an 89 allegro 27' on a p30 chasis. it is stock, haven't done anything to suspension yet. This thing goes down the road like a boat and rolls and leans as you go. I need to tighten it up. I plan to put on bilsteins but what else should I do to tighten up. Has original tires which I will replace-any thoughts on a type that might help this problem?

Keith in PA
User ID: 2693314 Apr 5th 9:51 PM
jd
Thank you for the reply. I just had the RV aligned after the new tires were installed and I did notice some improvement. Did you replace the swaybar bushings with stock or neoprene bushings? Did you adjust the steering box yourself? If so...was it easy to do?
IHS, Keith in PA

jd
User ID: 1557854 Jun 6th 8:05 PM
Keith, this is LONG overdue, and maybe you've moved on by now. I bought a NAPA sway bar bushing kit. It's for all Ford E-series chassis and apparently some are different from mine. This left me with parts left over. The tops use two bushings, one each side of the bar, like we usually see. The bottoms used a two-piece bushing that goes into a ring-like mount that the bolt goes through, perpendicular to the rod with the two opposed bushings on the top. All bushings were a hard, black plastic. Not the usual poly look but clearly not rubber. I have not yet replaced the center bushings but plan on using Poly when I do.
I've found the "4x4" stores (you know, Big Boy Toys) don't specialize in RVs in the least but can furnish lots of stuff that will fit them. Steering stabilizers, airbags, bushings, etc.
I adjusted both the steering box and the toe-in myself. Have a little more to do before pulling the steering wheel to re-center it. E-Series has adjustment on only one tie rod end, so final centering of the wheel has do be done by taking it off and putting it back on again.
If I can still help, let me know. God Bless, jd

Bruce McKenney
User ID: 1000714 Jun 8th 10:22 AM
Hum! Air spring on rear of leaf spring on rear suspension. Sounds like a good idea. Where can I find out more about "Jet ride"?

brucemckenney
User ID: 1000714 Jun 9th 12:15 AM
We've recently installed the Brocks-AD-A-Ride air ride system to our 2000 F53. What a difference! No more harsh ride. No more constant steering corrections. Floats down the roughest roads with no dash board wiggles. It constantly monitors the front axle to frame distance, per side, and adds or subtracts air pressure accordingly. That's even better than the diesel pusher systems. They've also had Monroe specially re-valve the Gas Magnum shocks to their specs. to work with the system.
Guess we won't have to eat the depreciation on our gasser plus double our investment for a diesel pusher, just to enjoy the ride.
Now if Jet Co. has a system for the rear, we're in hog heaven!

brucemckenney
User ID: 1000714 Jun 18th 7:47 PM
Ah Ha! I've found it! Fleetco offers a rear air ride package. It will share the same on-board compressor with the Brock's AD-A-RIDE. Completely replaces the rear leaf springs.

Let's see. A complete air ride suspension on a gas motorhome will run about $3500, total. For those of us that don't put enough miles on our units to justify a diesel, that's not so bad!

Steve D
Moderator
User ID: 1314254 Oct 31st 12:34 PM
jd,

Just put Bilsteins on my pickup. FWIW, the same part number fit the 1500, 2500, qnd the 3500 series truck. I was going to put Monroes or Gabriels on it but a friend that races said not to waste the money. In fact, he said I would be just as well off leaving the stock shock with 83K on there if I wouldn't put a good shock on it.

The Bilsteins cost about $50.00 each at shox.com. I would have to say it was money WELL spent.

You might give them a call. They WILL deal.
I have no affiliation with them by the way.

Hope this helps,

Steve

jd
User ID: 1557854 Nov 4th 8:47 PM
Thanks,Steve! I sent them a request for quote. Will advise. God Bless, jd

Gerry
User ID: 0415304 Jan 24th 1:00 AM
You need to look in the truck specs. to find the right shock for a motorhome. Not to many dealers know that and the truck book gives much better info about shocks for a Class A motorhome.
Gerry

Earl Dunham
User ID: 0979534 Feb 9th 5:09 PM
I have Bridgestone 12ply F rated tires with maximum pressure of 110lbs, tire experts have recommended 100lbs, which I use. The pressure was 70lbs when we got RV and the ride was sloppy. Increasing pressure and Bilsteins has made the ride firm and easy to handle.

Mike
Administrator Feb 9th 6:12 PM
Earl,

Depending upon your wheels, you may also have inflated your tires above the max. allowed for the wheels and put yourself in a dangerous situation; a vastly increased possibility of catastrophic failure of the wheels.

I believe this topic is addressed somewhere earlier in this thread.

Mike

Gary
User ID: 1634094 Apr 25th 1:23 AM
After reading the messages relating to ride quality, two names of suspension system mfr's were mentioned that I would like to get more info on. The two were Mor/Ryde and Brock's Add-A-Ride. I Own a 2000 34' Winnebago Chieftain that could use some help in the ride department and I would appreciate hearing from anyone with personal knowledge of these products. I couldn't find a web sight for the Brock's product. Does anyone have a number for them, or an address?

jd
User ID: 8464923 Apr 25th 9:49 PM
Rick,
The shocks are selected for the chassis, not the coach upfit. Just go to Ford Truck, work your way to Class C, you'll see E350, then 555033 and '34 for front and rear. Based on what I've read, I think I'll put Bilsteins on mine. '83 E350, same shocks as yours since they go '75-'91. Question, do you have steering wander and have you tried any kind of steering stabilizer?
God Bless, jd

Rick Howell
User ID: 0387824 Apr 26th 9:27 AM
Jd,
Thank you for your input. I see the light.
Our MH has minor steering wander. 36k mileage. I will address that in the future (probably next year)because we have our money budgeted for different things right now and it is time to go camping.
Take it easy
Rick

Jim R
User ID: 9851073 Sep 20th 10:48 AM
Mike,read this thread over again and found your
reply of Feb 9th.I know I missed it before so can you explain what you meant about over inflation re the wheels as the tires we have R8/19.5 are ment to be inflated 100-110psi according to the sidewall they are also all steel belts.Can you tell me how to find out if they are in danger.
Jim

Marty
User ID: 0478154 Sep 23rd 11:02 PM
Jim: Since no one has posted an answer to your question for the past three days, let me try.

Someplace on your rim, generally on the flat area should be posted or stamped a number that would indicate the maximum amount of tire pressure that the rim can SAFELY handle with out splitting apart. In the case of my P-30 Chevy rims, the number 90 is stamped into the flat area of the rim. I also run 12 ply tires that has 125 lbs stamped on sidewall but no way would I consider running that much air in my tires. Because I kind of picky about weight, I generally cold pressure my tires from 75 to 80 lbs. Might consider 85 but that would be max for me.

What I find interesting is the number of “expert” tire people that is not aware of this restrictions. It almost happen to me and just this past weekend, a close friend who put new tires on his rig was over pressured by his tire supplier. Probably the easiest way for you to check would be to go to a rear dual, pull the hub cap if you have one, then carefully check around the flat of the rim for any number stamped into the rim. It might be hard to see due to dirt or being painted over but it should be there.

Hope this answer your question.

Marty in TN

Jim R
User ID: 9851073 Sep 24th 9:47 AM
Thanks Marty
Thought all had lost interest,will check that out it is far better to be safe than to suffer the consequence of rim and tire blowing.Had a 1200/24 blow apart when I was a kid when mounting outside dual sliped went down lock ring popped tire and I (210 lbs)straight up 10 to 12ft as told by bystanders as I was out cold The Doc that looked at me said the only thing that saved me was I was built like a brick ----house so you can understand my concern I hope.
Thanks to all for all past help I have recieved in the past and looking to all yor help in the future.
Jim

Don
User ID: 8241803 Mar 9th 3:29 AM
87 Bounder on Chevy chassis - Tires started blowing out at 10,000 miles so I replaced them with radials - helped the roll and wander.

94 Southwind on Ford - Tires started blowing out at about 18,000 miles. Replace with 10 ply radials, helped the roll a bit, enjoyed not having to worry about blow-outs.

01 Allegro Bus - No roll or wander - guess its the extra weight of the rig and the fact that it is not loaded to max GVW.

I'm sure the other two rigs were loaded to max on the factory tires and the tire failure was due to the heavy loads. They were properly inflated and had about 3/4 of the original tread remaining?? Not much load capacity on the earlier gas rigs, by the time you subtract the dry weight of the vehicle from the rated GVW then fill the fuel and water tanks and throw in some gear its easy to be overloaded.

The newer rigs have higher GVW ratings but it still wouldn't be a bad idea to load it up then find a scale. Best is to get a weight on each corner then compare the weights with the ratings located on the tire side-wall.

jd
User ID: 2992754 Mar 9th 8:59 AM
The grand old thread that just won't die! Hopefully today I'll finish up a front end refurb project on the '83 E350. Changed the bushings where the twin I-Beams pivot at the frame last week. Raised front end on the leveling jacks, put jackstands under frame, removed wheels, lower shock bolts and upper sway bar nuts. Axle swings free, held up by the spring since spring is anchored to axle at bottom and frame at top. Pressed bushings out and in with AutoZone loaner balljoint press augmented with some sockets and large washers from my own stuff.
Over the weekend, replaced the radius arm bushings. Hard to find the correct brand, the Perfect Circle number stocked in several places wasn't right. Found the best fit and deal at NAPA. They're neoprene, will take a lot of torquing to compress into place. Decided the radius arm bushings were the cause of the toe-out I adjusted a year or so ago. Expect I'll have to reset that, will report what happens.
Hopefully today I'll get the second front shock changed. Going with NonBilstein. Local availabilty and price on a generic for Monroe Gas Magnum RV.
Well, back to it. Will let y'all know how all this works out.
God Bless, jd

Alan
User ID: 1954724 Jul 27th 2:27 AM
I have a 92 Winnie Brave 31' on a Ford 53 chassi, I bought it 2 years ago with 15,000 mi. I first installed the Bilstiens which helped some of the rolling. Last year I put 9000 miles on it and was OK with it's handeling. This year I drove it to Alaska and I the driver got motion sick form time to time. When I got home I installed the Davis true track bar and while I was under there I noticed the rubber mounts (like the rubber in a shock mount had broke up and was gone. I installed new rubber bushings for the front sway bar and between the both it is one heck of alot better to drive. I wonder how much better it would have been had the rubber mounts had been good before I added the Davis true track bar. I did talk to someone on the way up who added the Safety steer kit to his 04 Winnie and said it made all the difference in the world in wind and passing trucks. That may be my next purchace. But no matter what you do they arn't going to drive like the car you drive every day. They are a big box usually on undersized chassis. I too have followed diesel pushers in the wind and could see they had their hands full too.

Back 20 Messages

Jim M User ID: 7399413	Sep 27th 3:59 PM I have an 89 allegro 27' on a p30 chasis. it is stock, haven't done anything to suspension yet. This thing goes down the road like a boat and rolls and leans as you go. I need to tighten it up. I plan to put on bilsteins but what else should I do to tighten up. Has original tires which I will replace-any thoughts on a type that might help this problem?
Keith in PA User ID: 2693314	Apr 5th 9:51 PM jd Thank you for the reply. I just had the RV aligned after the new tires were installed and I did notice some improvement. Did you replace the swaybar bushings with stock or neoprene bushings? Did you adjust the steering box yourself? If so...was it easy to do? IHS, Keith in PA
jd User ID: 1557854	Jun 6th 8:05 PM Keith, this is LONG overdue, and maybe you've moved on by now. I bought a NAPA sway bar bushing kit. It's for all Ford E-series chassis and apparently some are different from mine. This left me with parts left over. The tops use two bushings, one each side of the bar, like we usually see. The bottoms used a two-piece bushing that goes into a ring-like mount that the bolt goes through, perpendicular to the rod with the two opposed bushings on the top. All bushings were a hard, black plastic. Not the usual poly look but clearly not rubber. I have not yet replaced the center bushings but plan on using Poly when I do. I've found the "4x4" stores (you know, Big Boy Toys) don't specialize in RVs in the least but can furnish lots of stuff that will fit them. Steering stabilizers, airbags, bushings, etc. I adjusted both the steering box and the toe-in myself. Have a little more to do before pulling the steering wheel to re-center it. E-Series has adjustment on only one tie rod end, so final centering of the wheel has do be done by taking it off and putting it back on again. If I can still help, let me know. God Bless, jd
Bruce McKenney User ID: 1000714	Jun 8th 10:22 AM Hum! Air spring on rear of leaf spring on rear suspension. Sounds like a good idea. Where can I find out more about "Jet ride"?
brucemckenney User ID: 1000714	Jun 9th 12:15 AM We've recently installed the Brocks-AD-A-Ride air ride system to our 2000 F53. What a difference! No more harsh ride. No more constant steering corrections. Floats down the roughest roads with no dash board wiggles. It constantly monitors the front axle to frame distance, per side, and adds or subtracts air pressure accordingly. That's even better than the diesel pusher systems. They've also had Monroe specially re-valve the Gas Magnum shocks to their specs. to work with the system. Guess we won't have to eat the depreciation on our gasser plus double our investment for a diesel pusher, just to enjoy the ride. Now if Jet Co. has a system for the rear, we're in hog heaven!
brucemckenney User ID: 1000714	Jun 18th 7:47 PM Ah Ha! I've found it! Fleetco offers a rear air ride package. It will share the same on-board compressor with the Brock's AD-A-RIDE. Completely replaces the rear leaf springs. Let's see. A complete air ride suspension on a gas motorhome will run about $3500, total. For those of us that don't put enough miles on our units to justify a diesel, that's not so bad!
Steve D Moderator User ID: 1314254	Oct 31st 12:34 PM jd, Just put Bilsteins on my pickup. FWIW, the same part number fit the 1500, 2500, qnd the 3500 series truck. I was going to put Monroes or Gabriels on it but a friend that races said not to waste the money. In fact, he said I would be just as well off leaving the stock shock with 83K on there if I wouldn't put a good shock on it. The Bilsteins cost about $50.00 each at shox.com. I would have to say it was money WELL spent. You might give them a call. They WILL deal. I have no affiliation with them by the way. Hope this helps, Steve
jd User ID: 1557854	Nov 4th 8:47 PM Thanks,Steve! I sent them a request for quote. Will advise. God Bless, jd
Gerry User ID: 0415304	Jan 24th 1:00 AM You need to look in the truck specs. to find the right shock for a motorhome. Not to many dealers know that and the truck book gives much better info about shocks for a Class A motorhome. Gerry
Earl Dunham User ID: 0979534	Feb 9th 5:09 PM I have Bridgestone 12ply F rated tires with maximum pressure of 110lbs, tire experts have recommended 100lbs, which I use. The pressure was 70lbs when we got RV and the ride was sloppy. Increasing pressure and Bilsteins has made the ride firm and easy to handle.
Mike Administrator	Feb 9th 6:12 PM Earl, Depending upon your wheels, you may also have inflated your tires above the max. allowed for the wheels and put yourself in a dangerous situation; a vastly increased possibility of catastrophic failure of the wheels. I believe this topic is addressed somewhere earlier in this thread. Mike
Gary User ID: 1634094	Apr 25th 1:23 AM After reading the messages relating to ride quality, two names of suspension system mfr's were mentioned that I would like to get more info on. The two were Mor/Ryde and Brock's Add-A-Ride. I Own a 2000 34' Winnebago Chieftain that could use some help in the ride department and I would appreciate hearing from anyone with personal knowledge of these products. I couldn't find a web sight for the Brock's product. Does anyone have a number for them, or an address?
jd User ID: 8464923	Apr 25th 9:49 PM Rick, The shocks are selected for the chassis, not the coach upfit. Just go to Ford Truck, work your way to Class C, you'll see E350, then 555033 and '34 for front and rear. Based on what I've read, I think I'll put Bilsteins on mine. '83 E350, same shocks as yours since they go '75-'91. Question, do you have steering wander and have you tried any kind of steering stabilizer? God Bless, jd
Rick Howell User ID: 0387824	Apr 26th 9:27 AM Jd, Thank you for your input. I see the light. Our MH has minor steering wander. 36k mileage. I will address that in the future (probably next year)because we have our money budgeted for different things right now and it is time to go camping. Take it easy Rick
Jim R User ID: 9851073	Sep 20th 10:48 AM Mike,read this thread over again and found your reply of Feb 9th.I know I missed it before so can you explain what you meant about over inflation re the wheels as the tires we have R8/19.5 are ment to be inflated 100-110psi according to the sidewall they are also all steel belts.Can you tell me how to find out if they are in danger. Jim
Marty User ID: 0478154	Sep 23rd 11:02 PM Jim: Since no one has posted an answer to your question for the past three days, let me try. Someplace on your rim, generally on the flat area should be posted or stamped a number that would indicate the maximum amount of tire pressure that the rim can SAFELY handle with out splitting apart. In the case of my P-30 Chevy rims, the number 90 is stamped into the flat area of the rim. I also run 12 ply tires that has 125 lbs stamped on sidewall but no way would I consider running that much air in my tires. Because I kind of picky about weight, I generally cold pressure my tires from 75 to 80 lbs. Might consider 85 but that would be max for me. What I find interesting is the number of “expert” tire people that is not aware of this restrictions. It almost happen to me and just this past weekend, a close friend who put new tires on his rig was over pressured by his tire supplier. Probably the easiest way for you to check would be to go to a rear dual, pull the hub cap if you have one, then carefully check around the flat of the rim for any number stamped into the rim. It might be hard to see due to dirt or being painted over but it should be there. Hope this answer your question. Marty in TN
Jim R User ID: 9851073	Sep 24th 9:47 AM Thanks Marty Thought all had lost interest,will check that out it is far better to be safe than to suffer the consequence of rim and tire blowing.Had a 1200/24 blow apart when I was a kid when mounting outside dual sliped went down lock ring popped tire and I (210 lbs)straight up 10 to 12ft as told by bystanders as I was out cold The Doc that looked at me said the only thing that saved me was I was built like a brick ----house so you can understand my concern I hope. Thanks to all for all past help I have recieved in the past and looking to all yor help in the future. Jim
Don User ID: 8241803	Mar 9th 3:29 AM 87 Bounder on Chevy chassis - Tires started blowing out at 10,000 miles so I replaced them with radials - helped the roll and wander. 94 Southwind on Ford - Tires started blowing out at about 18,000 miles. Replace with 10 ply radials, helped the roll a bit, enjoyed not having to worry about blow-outs. 01 Allegro Bus - No roll or wander - guess its the extra weight of the rig and the fact that it is not loaded to max GVW. I'm sure the other two rigs were loaded to max on the factory tires and the tire failure was due to the heavy loads. They were properly inflated and had about 3/4 of the original tread remaining?? Not much load capacity on the earlier gas rigs, by the time you subtract the dry weight of the vehicle from the rated GVW then fill the fuel and water tanks and throw in some gear its easy to be overloaded. The newer rigs have higher GVW ratings but it still wouldn't be a bad idea to load it up then find a scale. Best is to get a weight on each corner then compare the weights with the ratings located on the tire side-wall.
jd User ID: 2992754	Mar 9th 8:59 AM The grand old thread that just won't die! Hopefully today I'll finish up a front end refurb project on the '83 E350. Changed the bushings where the twin I-Beams pivot at the frame last week. Raised front end on the leveling jacks, put jackstands under frame, removed wheels, lower shock bolts and upper sway bar nuts. Axle swings free, held up by the spring since spring is anchored to axle at bottom and frame at top. Pressed bushings out and in with AutoZone loaner balljoint press augmented with some sockets and large washers from my own stuff. Over the weekend, replaced the radius arm bushings. Hard to find the correct brand, the Perfect Circle number stocked in several places wasn't right. Found the best fit and deal at NAPA. They're neoprene, will take a lot of torquing to compress into place. Decided the radius arm bushings were the cause of the toe-out I adjusted a year or so ago. Expect I'll have to reset that, will report what happens. Hopefully today I'll get the second front shock changed. Going with NonBilstein. Local availabilty and price on a generic for Monroe Gas Magnum RV. Well, back to it. Will let y'all know how all this works out. God Bless, jd
Alan User ID: 1954724	Jul 27th 2:27 AM I have a 92 Winnie Brave 31' on a Ford 53 chassi, I bought it 2 years ago with 15,000 mi. I first installed the Bilstiens which helped some of the rolling. Last year I put 9000 miles on it and was OK with it's handeling. This year I drove it to Alaska and I the driver got motion sick form time to time. When I got home I installed the Davis true track bar and while I was under there I noticed the rubber mounts (like the rubber in a shock mount had broke up and was gone. I installed new rubber bushings for the front sway bar and between the both it is one heck of alot better to drive. I wonder how much better it would have been had the rubber mounts had been good before I added the Davis true track bar. I did talk to someone on the way up who added the Safety steer kit to his 04 Winnie and said it made all the difference in the world in wind and passing trucks. That may be my next purchace. But no matter what you do they arn't going to drive like the car you drive every day. They are a big box usually on undersized chassis. I too have followed diesel pushers in the wind and could see they had their hands full too.