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The RVer's Open Forum / TECHNICAL RV HELP / Refriderator replacement options

Paul Allerding
User ID: 1439244 Aug 7th 10:57 AM

I have a 1990 motorhome with a typical RV refridgerator (approx 24 by 54 inches opening). It let loose its ammonia the other day--peeeewwweee! Anyway, I would avoid the approximately $1500 replacement cost if possible, but what are my options?

Can it be fixed? Is it worth fixing?

What about a small elecric fridge (say 6 cubic feet which ad says uses 2 amps at 120 volts) and an inverter? I can get a 2000/4000 watt inverter for $200 used and the fridge would only be maybe $100 to $150. Also eliminates the shut off the flame every time I gas up situation.

Or do I just bite the bullet and spring for a new fridge? What about used? I see used at this site, but local only and I am not in Washington, but Michigan

Thanks.

Barthbill
User ID: 8645673 Aug 8th 10:33 AM
I guess 2 amps is what the fridge draws when the compressor is running.

Do you have any idea what the amp draw per hour would be?

Is there a sticker giving the daily consumption?

How big is your battery bank?

Got solar?

How often and when will you run your genset?

A Kill A Watt is a good investement and will record use over a period of time.

Paul Allerding
User ID: 1160984 Aug 8th 12:23 PM
I just looked at a pretty large compact fridge that is just smaller than the opening and it says input 1.4 amps.

A Sears 4.4 cf fridge is rated 330 Kilowatt hours per year if that helps.

I have two marine batteries.

I have solar, but would need a voltage regulator for it, but it only puts out a few amps.

No genset, but we are plugged in usually for a good 12 or more hours each day and then throw in about 5 hrs on the road nearly every day.

The inverter I am looking at (1000watt) will cut the power if the batteries drop to 10 volts.

Barthbill
User ID: 8645673 Aug 8th 3:35 PM
Paul, do you just want the fridge to operate while you are driving? In that case, the engine alternator should operate it through the inverter.

Does it have a defroster heater? Those draw a lot of current.

Paul Allerding
User ID: 1439244 Aug 8th 10:25 PM
The 1.4 amp fridge I noted above apparently does not have a defroster as its freezer was heavily frosted over.

I want the fridge to run all the time when I am on vacation. We usually are plugged in for 12 hours or more each night, driving may be 3 to 6 hours during the day, and there will be stops for 1 to 3 hours at a time as we visit attractions.

If need be I can throw in a third coach battery. I also have three solar pannels, but can't use them until I get a voltage regulator.

Pete
User ID: 9544623 Aug 13th 12:46 PM
I used a home 6 cf 120V compressor fridge for a few years in a 83 class A. It would keep things cold for a days drive(8 hr) by using those blue ice things when on the road. When plugged in I would refreeze them and they were good for the next day.

John Harrelson
User ID: 0436494 Aug 18th 1:49 PM
Hi Paul,
I had the same problem about thirty years ago and opted for a 110 volt "Bar" fridge from good ol' Sears and Rareback.. Cost $99.00

It was real close to the same size of the RV fridge that I took out, about 4/5 ft high. But it was lighter than the old one and actually had more room inside.

Because I never boondock and always rent a full service space at the RV parks when I stopped for the night, it was perfect for me.

It would run at night and by keeping the door closed next day, everything stayed cold and frozen all day long..

So ask yourself if you are the boondocking type or the RV park type and how much actual moving around do you actuality do..

This should help to make the correct choice.

John

Paul Allerding
User ID: 9356783 Dec 2nd 7:49 AM
Well I finally got the fridge set up. It is a 4.9 cf 1.2 amp with 8.4 amp startup current. Runing with two 250 amp hr coach batteries and a 1200 watt inverter I took a week long vacation and had no issues with battery drainage. I was plugged in every night, outdoor temps were 50's, I did a lot of driving, so was not just parked with engine off and unplugged for more than a few hours at a time. I think this thing would make it through a nite without land line if needed.

Doug Nall
User ID: 0220464 Feb 3rd 8:05 PM
I had same prob.I was going to put 2 of those sm.boxes in one on top of the other. set one to coldest to make a freezer the other to just refr. was going to install ice maker in freezer.(out of the old rv refr.) that way-- I would have both a fr. and ref..Then I ran an ad inweekly no cost paper, 1st. day got a call, he had aNEW?(3 YRS OLD.) RV REF-2 DOOR, never been installed.Of course I bought it.(200$)But now I can't use ice maker..

TallPaul
User ID: 9356783 Feb 6th 7:36 AM
I like that I don't have to mess with lighting the thing and shutting it off to fuel up. One problem I have is the temp would fluctuate considerably inside the unit, more the freezed than the fridge. I had it vented to the outdoors in back, just like the RV fridge, but the company told me that will cause it to misread the ambient, so I have plugged the back and top vents and left it open to the inside air. Seems to work better, but still fluctuates. Not sure if it's the movement all the time, or just a defective fridge, but there is no taking it back. No matter, it is sufficient for what I need.

Paul Allerding User ID: 1439244	Aug 7th 10:57 AM I have a 1990 motorhome with a typical RV refridgerator (approx 24 by 54 inches opening). It let loose its ammonia the other day--peeeewwweee! Anyway, I would avoid the approximately $1500 replacement cost if possible, but what are my options? Can it be fixed? Is it worth fixing? What about a small elecric fridge (say 6 cubic feet which ad says uses 2 amps at 120 volts) and an inverter? I can get a 2000/4000 watt inverter for $200 used and the fridge would only be maybe $100 to $150. Also eliminates the shut off the flame every time I gas up situation. Or do I just bite the bullet and spring for a new fridge? What about used? I see used at this site, but local only and I am not in Washington, but Michigan Thanks.
Barthbill User ID: 8645673	Aug 8th 10:33 AM I guess 2 amps is what the fridge draws when the compressor is running. Do you have any idea what the amp draw per hour would be? Is there a sticker giving the daily consumption? How big is your battery bank? Got solar? How often and when will you run your genset? A Kill A Watt is a good investement and will record use over a period of time.
Paul Allerding User ID: 1160984	Aug 8th 12:23 PM I just looked at a pretty large compact fridge that is just smaller than the opening and it says input 1.4 amps. A Sears 4.4 cf fridge is rated 330 Kilowatt hours per year if that helps. I have two marine batteries. I have solar, but would need a voltage regulator for it, but it only puts out a few amps. No genset, but we are plugged in usually for a good 12 or more hours each day and then throw in about 5 hrs on the road nearly every day. The inverter I am looking at (1000watt) will cut the power if the batteries drop to 10 volts.
Barthbill User ID: 8645673	Aug 8th 3:35 PM Paul, do you just want the fridge to operate while you are driving? In that case, the engine alternator should operate it through the inverter. Does it have a defroster heater? Those draw a lot of current.
Paul Allerding User ID: 1439244	Aug 8th 10:25 PM The 1.4 amp fridge I noted above apparently does not have a defroster as its freezer was heavily frosted over. I want the fridge to run all the time when I am on vacation. We usually are plugged in for 12 hours or more each night, driving may be 3 to 6 hours during the day, and there will be stops for 1 to 3 hours at a time as we visit attractions. If need be I can throw in a third coach battery. I also have three solar pannels, but can't use them until I get a voltage regulator.
Pete User ID: 9544623	Aug 13th 12:46 PM I used a home 6 cf 120V compressor fridge for a few years in a 83 class A. It would keep things cold for a days drive(8 hr) by using those blue ice things when on the road. When plugged in I would refreeze them and they were good for the next day.
John Harrelson User ID: 0436494	Aug 18th 1:49 PM Hi Paul, I had the same problem about thirty years ago and opted for a 110 volt "Bar" fridge from good ol' Sears and Rareback.. Cost $99.00 It was real close to the same size of the RV fridge that I took out, about 4/5 ft high. But it was lighter than the old one and actually had more room inside. Because I never boondock and always rent a full service space at the RV parks when I stopped for the night, it was perfect for me. It would run at night and by keeping the door closed next day, everything stayed cold and frozen all day long.. So ask yourself if you are the boondocking type or the RV park type and how much actual moving around do you actuality do.. This should help to make the correct choice. John
Paul Allerding User ID: 9356783	Dec 2nd 7:49 AM Well I finally got the fridge set up. It is a 4.9 cf 1.2 amp with 8.4 amp startup current. Runing with two 250 amp hr coach batteries and a 1200 watt inverter I took a week long vacation and had no issues with battery drainage. I was plugged in every night, outdoor temps were 50's, I did a lot of driving, so was not just parked with engine off and unplugged for more than a few hours at a time. I think this thing would make it through a nite without land line if needed.
Doug Nall User ID: 0220464	Feb 3rd 8:05 PM I had same prob.I was going to put 2 of those sm.boxes in one on top of the other. set one to coldest to make a freezer the other to just refr. was going to install ice maker in freezer.(out of the old rv refr.) that way-- I would have both a fr. and ref..Then I ran an ad inweekly no cost paper, 1st. day got a call, he had aNEW?(3 YRS OLD.) RV REF-2 DOOR, never been installed.Of course I bought it.(200$)But now I can't use ice maker..
TallPaul User ID: 9356783	Feb 6th 7:36 AM I like that I don't have to mess with lighting the thing and shutting it off to fuel up. One problem I have is the temp would fluctuate considerably inside the unit, more the freezed than the fridge. I had it vented to the outdoors in back, just like the RV fridge, but the company told me that will cause it to misread the ambient, so I have plugged the back and top vents and left it open to the inside air. Seems to work better, but still fluctuates. Not sure if it's the movement all the time, or just a defective fridge, but there is no taking it back. No matter, it is sufficient for what I need.