The RVer's Open Forum

Swirve.com Links: Swirve.com Free Email Games Fantasy Sports E-Cards Movies Horoscopes Freebies Web Search

NOTICE: Beginning July 10th, 2008, this message board service will no longer be active or available for use.

The RVer's Open Forum / TECHNICAL RV HELP / Anode for water heater?

Chuck Osborn
User ID: 8722703 Feb 13th 9:56 AM
I have a model GC10A-4E waterheater in my 2004 Bounder (Fleetwood) Motor Coach. It initally had a nylon drain plug.I stopped at a dealer and asked for a brass plug with a drain cock. The agent suggested replacing it with an anode rod. I complied and when I removed it last fall the rod was completely eroded away. Yesterday I stopped by the dealer to get a new one. The same agent mentioned an anode might not be necessary. My question is it? serial #940 2100536P

Mike
Administrator Feb 14th 9:31 AM
Some water heater mfgs recommend using a sacrificial anode rod. Others say you don't need one. (You didn't tell us which brand you have.) However, the sacrificial anode rod you removed was "completely eroded away". That indicates to me that it did its job.

I'd replace it with another.

CAD-Man
User ID: 9558813 Feb 15th 5:49 PM
The GC10A-4E is an Atwood water heater and according to the Atwood WEB Site you do not need a sacrificial anode rod.

Below is a Quote from Atwood's WEB site

ATWOOD CLAD TANK
The Atwood water heater tank is constructed of a core of high strength aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a
15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process.
This material protects the tank from the affects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is
anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer.
There is also no need to replace an anode on a yearly basis.
Flushing the tank on a regular basis has been found to be helpful in insuring the best performance of your water hater
and adding to the useful life of the tank. For flushing instructions see your owners manual or contact Atwood for a copy
of our recommended procedures.

Bruce

Chuck Osborn User ID: 8722703	Feb 13th 9:56 AM I have a model GC10A-4E waterheater in my 2004 Bounder (Fleetwood) Motor Coach. It initally had a nylon drain plug.I stopped at a dealer and asked for a brass plug with a drain cock. The agent suggested replacing it with an anode rod. I complied and when I removed it last fall the rod was completely eroded away. Yesterday I stopped by the dealer to get a new one. The same agent mentioned an anode might not be necessary. My question is it? serial #940 2100536P
Mike Administrator	Feb 14th 9:31 AM Some water heater mfgs recommend using a sacrificial anode rod. Others say you don't need one. (You didn't tell us which brand you have.) However, the sacrificial anode rod you removed was "completely eroded away". That indicates to me that it did its job. I'd replace it with another.
CAD-Man User ID: 9558813	Feb 15th 5:49 PM The GC10A-4E is an Atwood water heater and according to the Atwood WEB Site you do not need a sacrificial anode rod. Below is a Quote from Atwood's WEB site ATWOOD CLAD TANK The Atwood water heater tank is constructed of a core of high strength aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a 15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process. This material protects the tank from the affects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer. There is also no need to replace an anode on a yearly basis. Flushing the tank on a regular basis has been found to be helpful in insuring the best performance of your water hater and adding to the useful life of the tank. For flushing instructions see your owners manual or contact Atwood for a copy of our recommended procedures. Bruce