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The RVer's Open Forum / TECHNICAL RV HELP / awning tension

Wayne
User ID: 9865253 Apr 11th 5:06 PM
My awning will not retract without
pushing up on the rails as it rolls up.
How do I increase the tension so that it will roll up on it's own.
TIA, Wayne

John Harrelson
User ID: 1028194 Apr 12th 7:28 PM
I have an A&E 20 footer ...
Wayne ... while you can do it, it is dangerous if you don't know how. that spring has broken more than one hand and wrist. I strongly recommend having a RV tech do it for you..

It will take about 20 to 30 min of time.. so call your local RV repair man and ask what his rates are.. This will give you a "Ballpark" cost.

Best of luck pardner,

John

(Mod)

Steve D
Moderator
User ID: 1139804 Apr 12th 7:42 PM
Wayne,

The way I do it is to first of all, get a helper and a ladder and open the awning. Then with the helper holding the awning up, remove one of the rafters where it connects to the coach at the bottom and then support the end of the awning on the ladder. Then remove the screws that hold the two halves of the rafter together and pull out the bottom section of the arm. That will give you enough clearance to "wind" the whole arm and add (or remove) tension from the spring. Keep track of how many turns you add/remove so you can repeat on the other end of the awning. Reverse the procedure to reassemble the arms to the coach. On the lock end, make sure you have the latch in the correct position to allow you to wind the rafter in the direction needed.

I have done this a number of times and since the spring tension is not nearly enough to carry the arm over the top, it is relatively safe to do. If you are not comfortable with this or if it is not clear, I would suggest finding someone that has done it (like at a service center) to do it for you.

Hope that is all clear.

Steve

Dick
User ID: 0658904 Apr 12th 7:44 PM
I read someware that if you take the support arm and take it off at the bottom hook up(as if you were going to set up as a car port)and rotate the arm around a turn or two, this will tighten the spring without the worry about bracking an arm. You would have to this the same on both sides.
Dick

Wayne
User ID: 9865253 Apr 13th 8:12 AM
Steve,
Should the latch be in the open or closed position when I rotate the arm?
I would guess closed.
Thanks again everyone. Wayne

Steve D
Moderator
User ID: 8492403 Apr 13th 2:24 PM
Wayne,

The latch needs to be in whatever position that allows you "wind" the arm without turning the outer tube. I don't remember if that is latched or unlatched. (I usually mess that up and have to move the latch the other way!) You want to have a friend hold the tube so it won't rotate while you wind the arm to tighten the spring. That's why I find it easier to support the end of the awning tube with a ladder while performing this task.

I hope this makes sense.

Steve

Pete
User ID: 1446254 Apr 16th 4:17 PM
The end caps on the A & E tell you which way to turn to tighten or loosen.

Howard
User ID: 1278884 May 5th 10:36 AM
Hmmmm . . . I don't know anything about this stuff, but for a shop job of an hour or less (re. John Harrelson's post), I wouldn't be risking any serious personal injuries for the sake of $50 or so.

Jon
User ID: 1028194 Nov 17th 3:44 PM
I was stowing the Carefree-of-Colorado awning on my motorhome when I heard, and felt, the right spring come un-wound. Sprrroooing!

Well, thank goodness I didn't get a broken wrist but I did get the severe cut -- three of them as a matter of fact. I had taken the end off like the instructions said and found the end of the spring had come lose from the end fitting. I pushed it back on and twisted it some to tighten it up and then added a little Lock-Tite. I got it all back together and breathed a sigh of relief until I looked down and discovered I had left the pull-down strap laying where it fell out of the slot during the disassembly. Oh, no! The only way I could get it back in the slot was to go through the whole process again. Sure enough, I inadvertently let the spring slip and the vice-grips spun around with considerable force and smacked the back of my left hand. It hurt! I thought at first that my hand might be broken in there somewhere but there were no broken bones -- just four half-inch long lacerations . . . and the blood began flowing. Thank goodness my wife is a nurse. She had me bandaged up in no time and I was back out putting that damn awning back together. The awning works fine now and maybe I did save myself $50 dollars but I will definitely heed those CAUTIONS in the future.

Steve D
Moderator
User ID: 1028194 Nov 17th 3:44 PM
That's exactly why I recommend using the whole arm to tension the spring and NOT the vice-grips. The spring is not strong enough to swing the arm around making the operation MUCH safer.

Glad you are alright!

Steve

Jon
User ID: 0826264 Nov 18th 12:44 AM
Thanks Steve, I wish that article I read about awning repair had mentioned that -- it's a terrific idea . . . one that I'll definitely remember. Just hope I never have to do it again. I'm sure, however, that I'll find somebody out in the RV world who needs the information and I'll not only tell them, but will also pass on where I got the information. Again, thanks!

Jack
User ID: 8234713 Oct 20th 9:18 AM
I have a 24ft. A&E system, Here is what I have done, there is a bolt at each end of the roller that holds the tension,I took a visegrip and clamped it on one end of the rod that runs through from end to end which is part of the spring,Then I loosen the bolt on the other end,and then the bolt on the end I have the visegrips on,you always want to maintain control over it so the spring won't un-roll on you,gave it a crank,snugged the bolt back up,repostion the visegrips and loosen the bolt again,gave it another crank. If your spring is still good,you will only need to give it a couple turns most likely.After each turn make sure you snug up one bolt before giving it another turn so the spring doesn't un-roll.Once thats done retighten both bolts.One other thing a dirty sticky awning will slow it down from closing.Hope this helps you
Good luck
Jack

Slow down but keep moving,and you will go along way!!
Do it right the first time,enjoy life while you can.
Have-A-Happy

Cherry-94-30R Wilderness TT
Iron horse-04 Silverado

Steve D
Moderator
User ID: 0352454 Oct 20th 2:21 PM
Jack,

I have worked on several of these awnings and have NEVER seen the shaft I THINK you are referring to go from one end of the awning to the other. Is that what you are saying? I have replaced the spring assemblies on awnings before and there is a RIGHT and LEFT spring assembly and the shaft is exclusive to EACH one.

Maybe I misunderstood.

Steve

Jack
User ID: 9488873 Oct 21st 2:53 PM
Yes there is a RH,and a LH.or front and rear, and yes steve go from one end to the other.Here is also another way to perform the adjustment..

1) Lower the awning, so the roller tube is as close to the ground as possible.

2) The support arm consists of an outer and inner section. Remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the bottom end of the outer section. These are "stops" that keep the tension arm in its channel.

3) Slide the tension arm out of its channel in the outer section and tighten its knob, so it can hang next to the MH without its inner section coming out.

4) With your assistant holding the roller tube (it’ll want to move towards the MH), remove the support arm from the bracket on the MH, just like you'd do if you were going to use it in the carport mode. Remove the inner section from the outer section.

5) You’re now left with just the 5' section of outer support arm. With your back to the front of the MH, rotate it counterclockwise one or more revolutions. One was sufficient for mine.

6) Reinsert the inner support arm section and attach it to the MH bracket.

7) Slide the tension arm back in its channel in the outer support arm section and re-install the 2 Phillips head screws that serve as its stop.

8) Repeat procedure for the back support arm. You’ll tension this spring by facing toward the front of the MH and turning the support arm clockwise.

You’re done, and hopefully your right on the amount of tension you added. If anyone wants to do this by themself,be carefull It can be a dangerous job.

Slow down but keep moving,and you will go along way!!
Do it right the first time,enjoy life while you can.
Have-A-Happy

Cherry-94-30R Wilderness TT
Iron horse-04 Silverado

Steve D
Moderator
User ID: 7378223 Oct 22nd 8:38 AM
Here is a page that shows the breakdown of the spring assemblies for an A&E awning. Note the assemblies are in no way connected to one another.

http://www.marksrv.com/8500torsion.htm

The method you describe for tensioning the springs is MUCH safer than using vice-grips. That's why I described the same thing in my message of April 12th, just above your message.

Steve

Jack
User ID: 0756324 Oct 22nd 5:51 PM
Yes it is,the visegrip thing was called in a pinch..LOL but it worked for me fine.I rebuild alot of rv's so it was no big deal for me to use visegrips,but for someone that doesn't no what there doing should do it in a different fashion.Them springs do have alot of tension.I sometimes prefer leaving the arms on,and use them like a lever to wind the awning,this way you don't have to take that chance on everything flying apart,and hurting someone.I guess everyone has there own way.
Have a good one

Dave D
User ID: 0456964 Nov 23rd 9:43 AM
My new (used) Mountain Aire clearly has weak awning springs as was evident driving I-40 East with a 30 mph wind from the South! So, tightening the springs, assuming that they are both there and not broken, seems to be the way to at least start attacking the problem.

Using the outer support arm seems like a terrific idea, thanks. Is there any reason you can't tie the pull strap to a fence or ground stake instead of using a ladder and do both springs at once? Since the springs will not be stong enough to rotate the outer support arm 'over the top' but will be strong enough to deflect the outer support arm from true vertical (no tension), it seems to me that having both arms deflected the same amount is a great indicator of both ends being in balance. Has anyone noted how many degrees of deflection of the outer support arm from true vertical is 'normal'?

Dave D
User ID: 2212414 Nov 28th 10:59 AM
For the record. You need a ladder, in fact, two ladders. One to support the awning and one to get you high enough to rotate the support arm. Move the loose end toward the coach to increase spring tension. (This eliminates worrying about clockwise or counterclockwise.) I also had to tie the strap to a fence but only because the ratchet latch is broken on my awning.

The support arm disconnects easily from the coach especially if you loosen the black knob which allows the tension arm to come apart as you pull the support arm away from the coach. If you have a inclinometer, adjust the tension for about 15 degrees off of vertical in each arm (with two wraps left on the cylinder). I had to put two turns in one arm and four in the other to get them equal. If you don't have an inclinometer, 15 degrees is about a 1 in 4 slope. So if you drop a plumb line from the awning center, then four feet down should have the resting support arm 1 foot off of vertical. This is probably a little stiffer than normal but I wanted that since I drive a lot in crosswinds and the tension is all that's keeping the awning from unravelling.

Wayne User ID: 9865253	Apr 11th 5:06 PM My awning will not retract without pushing up on the rails as it rolls up. How do I increase the tension so that it will roll up on it's own. TIA, Wayne
John Harrelson User ID: 1028194	Apr 12th 7:28 PM I have an A&E 20 footer ... Wayne ... while you can do it, it is dangerous if you don't know how. that spring has broken more than one hand and wrist. I strongly recommend having a RV tech do it for you.. It will take about 20 to 30 min of time.. so call your local RV repair man and ask what his rates are.. This will give you a "Ballpark" cost. Best of luck pardner, John (Mod)
Steve D Moderator User ID: 1139804	Apr 12th 7:42 PM Wayne, The way I do it is to first of all, get a helper and a ladder and open the awning. Then with the helper holding the awning up, remove one of the rafters where it connects to the coach at the bottom and then support the end of the awning on the ladder. Then remove the screws that hold the two halves of the rafter together and pull out the bottom section of the arm. That will give you enough clearance to "wind" the whole arm and add (or remove) tension from the spring. Keep track of how many turns you add/remove so you can repeat on the other end of the awning. Reverse the procedure to reassemble the arms to the coach. On the lock end, make sure you have the latch in the correct position to allow you to wind the rafter in the direction needed. I have done this a number of times and since the spring tension is not nearly enough to carry the arm over the top, it is relatively safe to do. If you are not comfortable with this or if it is not clear, I would suggest finding someone that has done it (like at a service center) to do it for you. Hope that is all clear. Steve
Dick User ID: 0658904	Apr 12th 7:44 PM I read someware that if you take the support arm and take it off at the bottom hook up(as if you were going to set up as a car port)and rotate the arm around a turn or two, this will tighten the spring without the worry about bracking an arm. You would have to this the same on both sides. Dick
Wayne User ID: 9865253	Apr 13th 8:12 AM Steve, Should the latch be in the open or closed position when I rotate the arm? I would guess closed. Thanks again everyone. Wayne
Steve D Moderator User ID: 8492403	Apr 13th 2:24 PM Wayne, The latch needs to be in whatever position that allows you "wind" the arm without turning the outer tube. I don't remember if that is latched or unlatched. (I usually mess that up and have to move the latch the other way!) You want to have a friend hold the tube so it won't rotate while you wind the arm to tighten the spring. That's why I find it easier to support the end of the awning tube with a ladder while performing this task. I hope this makes sense. Steve
Pete User ID: 1446254	Apr 16th 4:17 PM The end caps on the A & E tell you which way to turn to tighten or loosen.
Howard User ID: 1278884	May 5th 10:36 AM Hmmmm . . . I don't know anything about this stuff, but for a shop job of an hour or less (re. John Harrelson's post), I wouldn't be risking any serious personal injuries for the sake of $50 or so.
Jon User ID: 1028194	Nov 17th 3:44 PM I was stowing the Carefree-of-Colorado awning on my motorhome when I heard, and felt, the right spring come un-wound. Sprrroooing! Well, thank goodness I didn't get a broken wrist but I did get the severe cut -- three of them as a matter of fact. I had taken the end off like the instructions said and found the end of the spring had come lose from the end fitting. I pushed it back on and twisted it some to tighten it up and then added a little Lock-Tite. I got it all back together and breathed a sigh of relief until I looked down and discovered I had left the pull-down strap laying where it fell out of the slot during the disassembly. Oh, no! The only way I could get it back in the slot was to go through the whole process again. Sure enough, I inadvertently let the spring slip and the vice-grips spun around with considerable force and smacked the back of my left hand. It hurt! I thought at first that my hand might be broken in there somewhere but there were no broken bones -- just four half-inch long lacerations . . . and the blood began flowing. Thank goodness my wife is a nurse. She had me bandaged up in no time and I was back out putting that damn awning back together. The awning works fine now and maybe I did save myself $50 dollars but I will definitely heed those CAUTIONS in the future.
Steve D Moderator User ID: 1028194	Nov 17th 3:44 PM That's exactly why I recommend using the whole arm to tension the spring and NOT the vice-grips. The spring is not strong enough to swing the arm around making the operation MUCH safer. Glad you are alright! Steve
Jon User ID: 0826264	Nov 18th 12:44 AM Thanks Steve, I wish that article I read about awning repair had mentioned that -- it's a terrific idea . . . one that I'll definitely remember. Just hope I never have to do it again. I'm sure, however, that I'll find somebody out in the RV world who needs the information and I'll not only tell them, but will also pass on where I got the information. Again, thanks!
Jack User ID: 8234713	Oct 20th 9:18 AM I have a 24ft. A&E system, Here is what I have done, there is a bolt at each end of the roller that holds the tension,I took a visegrip and clamped it on one end of the rod that runs through from end to end which is part of the spring,Then I loosen the bolt on the other end,and then the bolt on the end I have the visegrips on,you always want to maintain control over it so the spring won't un-roll on you,gave it a crank,snugged the bolt back up,repostion the visegrips and loosen the bolt again,gave it another crank. If your spring is still good,you will only need to give it a couple turns most likely.After each turn make sure you snug up one bolt before giving it another turn so the spring doesn't un-roll.Once thats done retighten both bolts.One other thing a dirty sticky awning will slow it down from closing.Hope this helps you Good luck Jack Slow down but keep moving,and you will go along way!! Do it right the first time,enjoy life while you can. Have-A-Happy Cherry-94-30R Wilderness TT Iron horse-04 Silverado
Steve D Moderator User ID: 0352454	Oct 20th 2:21 PM Jack, I have worked on several of these awnings and have NEVER seen the shaft I THINK you are referring to go from one end of the awning to the other. Is that what you are saying? I have replaced the spring assemblies on awnings before and there is a RIGHT and LEFT spring assembly and the shaft is exclusive to EACH one. Maybe I misunderstood. Steve
Jack User ID: 9488873	Oct 21st 2:53 PM Yes there is a RH,and a LH.or front and rear, and yes steve go from one end to the other.Here is also another way to perform the adjustment.. 1) Lower the awning, so the roller tube is as close to the ground as possible. 2) The support arm consists of an outer and inner section. Remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the bottom end of the outer section. These are "stops" that keep the tension arm in its channel. 3) Slide the tension arm out of its channel in the outer section and tighten its knob, so it can hang next to the MH without its inner section coming out. 4) With your assistant holding the roller tube (it’ll want to move towards the MH), remove the support arm from the bracket on the MH, just like you'd do if you were going to use it in the carport mode. Remove the inner section from the outer section. 5) You’re now left with just the 5' section of outer support arm. With your back to the front of the MH, rotate it counterclockwise one or more revolutions. One was sufficient for mine. 6) Reinsert the inner support arm section and attach it to the MH bracket. 7) Slide the tension arm back in its channel in the outer support arm section and re-install the 2 Phillips head screws that serve as its stop. 8) Repeat procedure for the back support arm. You’ll tension this spring by facing toward the front of the MH and turning the support arm clockwise. You’re done, and hopefully your right on the amount of tension you added. If anyone wants to do this by themself,be carefull It can be a dangerous job. Slow down but keep moving,and you will go along way!! Do it right the first time,enjoy life while you can. Have-A-Happy Cherry-94-30R Wilderness TT Iron horse-04 Silverado
Steve D Moderator User ID: 7378223	Oct 22nd 8:38 AM Here is a page that shows the breakdown of the spring assemblies for an A&E awning. Note the assemblies are in no way connected to one another. http://www.marksrv.com/8500torsion.htm The method you describe for tensioning the springs is MUCH safer than using vice-grips. That's why I described the same thing in my message of April 12th, just above your message. Steve
Jack User ID: 0756324	Oct 22nd 5:51 PM Yes it is,the visegrip thing was called in a pinch..LOL but it worked for me fine.I rebuild alot of rv's so it was no big deal for me to use visegrips,but for someone that doesn't no what there doing should do it in a different fashion.Them springs do have alot of tension.I sometimes prefer leaving the arms on,and use them like a lever to wind the awning,this way you don't have to take that chance on everything flying apart,and hurting someone.I guess everyone has there own way. Have a good one
Dave D User ID: 0456964	Nov 23rd 9:43 AM My new (used) Mountain Aire clearly has weak awning springs as was evident driving I-40 East with a 30 mph wind from the South! So, tightening the springs, assuming that they are both there and not broken, seems to be the way to at least start attacking the problem. Using the outer support arm seems like a terrific idea, thanks. Is there any reason you can't tie the pull strap to a fence or ground stake instead of using a ladder and do both springs at once? Since the springs will not be stong enough to rotate the outer support arm 'over the top' but will be strong enough to deflect the outer support arm from true vertical (no tension), it seems to me that having both arms deflected the same amount is a great indicator of both ends being in balance. Has anyone noted how many degrees of deflection of the outer support arm from true vertical is 'normal'?
Dave D User ID: 2212414	Nov 28th 10:59 AM For the record. You need a ladder, in fact, two ladders. One to support the awning and one to get you high enough to rotate the support arm. Move the loose end toward the coach to increase spring tension. (This eliminates worrying about clockwise or counterclockwise.) I also had to tie the strap to a fence but only because the ratchet latch is broken on my awning. The support arm disconnects easily from the coach especially if you loosen the black knob which allows the tension arm to come apart as you pull the support arm away from the coach. If you have a inclinometer, adjust the tension for about 15 degrees off of vertical in each arm (with two wraps left on the cylinder). I had to put two turns in one arm and four in the other to get them equal. If you don't have an inclinometer, 15 degrees is about a 1 in 4 slope. So if you drop a plumb line from the awning center, then four feet down should have the resting support arm 1 foot off of vertical. This is probably a little stiffer than normal but I wanted that since I drive a lot in crosswinds and the tension is all that's keeping the awning from unravelling.